Whats in a Name?
A spice by any other name is … just confusing! Sometimes we have a customer who has been given a recipe by a friend or neighbour whose origins are based somewhere in Europe, Africa or Asia, and we have to work out the puzzle of what a particular spice might be when it is only identified by its colloquial name. In this respect, there is no end to the learning experience. Chatting with a spice vendor recently in Morocco, we discovered that what he calls “red pepper” is in fact what we call grains of paradise. There is some logic in the name, as the peppery-flavoured grains grow in a red pod something like a cardamom pod. At another spice souk, we were checking out the quality of the nutmegs when the vendor offered the information that he also carried “Saharan nutmeg”. We asked to look at it, and – voila! – more grains of paradise! This name is less logical, however the vendor was adamant that Saharan nutmeg was the only name that this particular spice carried.
Besides having fun with grains of paradise, we also found the saffron situation absolutely fascinating. We did find authentic saffron of intermediate quality in some stores, but we were amazed by the number of spice traders selling fake saffron. This happened even in quite remote country areas, where it is unlikely that the fake item is just for the tourist scam. In case you’ve purchased saffron in some exotic corner of the world, you should look closely at it to be sure that it is in fact shaped like a long trumpet, with a slight frilling at the open end. Having purchased a few samples of the so-called saffron in Morocco, we found that when infused, it coloured the water with abnormal speed, and within a couple of minutes, the pieces turned to a slimy paste that quickly dissolved when rubbed between the fingers. True saffron will not dissolve, no matter how long you leave it to infuse. Good quality saffron, if infused overnight, will give all of its colour to the liquid and become translucent, but it will still hold its natural shape.
Another angle to the saffron story in Morocco is the widespread use of artificial orange colouring. It comes folded into paper like the old Bex and Vincent’s headache powders, and is listed as an essential ingredient in local recipe books. One has to wonder why such an ingredient is considered necessary in tagines when it contributes nothing to the flavour.